FRIDAY

We depart at 0800 wary of the snow forecast tonight. A steady climb to ‘base camp’ at 5350m, where we change our boots to hired La Sportiva B3 climbing boots, which are light and excellent, and crampons. We then traverse the large glacier and climb up a relentless slope to High Camp at 5800m, arriving at 1430 as the snow clouds open (with a standing 15min lunch en route!) 

My legs tire more quickly than the inevitable breathlessness of the high altitude. I am pausing every 50 paces for a 30 second rest during the last hour but this method carries me up steadily. The snow deepens for the last 100m and steps become two at a time! 

High camp is a ‘rent a tent’ set up. But these tents are a harsh environment at 5800m with a modest mattress and single layer cover. The snow fall becomes heavy and I am advised to bash clear the falling snow every 10minutes!! 18-24 inches rapidly falls in a few hours meaning the planned 2am ascent will not happen. Tent service consists of noodle soup then supper of rice and dahl, plus popcorn and tea. I am exhausted and nauseated with some altitude sickness but fortunately this wears off after a few hours. I force down the noodles and dahl but struggle to drink the flask of water I have carried up. 

Frustratingly my power block is not working even when warmed up and my phone battery is already very low so I cannot listen to podcasts/music. I am dressed in all my layers: liner & thick socks, thermals, trousers, second top layer, fleece and down jacket, and then climb into my winter down sleeping bag. 

It must be -10 Centigrade in the tent and everything remains frozen. I dare not bite into my Dairy Milk chocolate, but let it melt. Restless sleep brings me to tea at 7am. Oddly I have baggy eyelids.