SATURDAY

I am soon ushered to look at the fabulous views in the clear morning air. We climb back up the sheltering slope behind our huge rocky outcrop. From there, there is a breathtaking view towards Mount Everest and the broad skyline of numerous other 7000-8840m peaks, including Lhotse and Makalu. To the right the valley is filled with low lying cloud and behind us the slope continues up towards the Mera Peaks. 

More cloud, then snow, is predicted this afternoon and tonight. All tracks have disappeared and any direction will now take twice as much effort. So summiting is almost impossible today or tomorrow. We could climb further to 6000m this morning but we risk the weather preventing us then descending today. After discussion over breakfast we decide to descend in the morning sunshine - facing Mount Everest and the skyline of peaks as we do so. 

We are often knee and sometimes thigh deep in the snow as we push through the snow, as our Sherpa guide recreates the ‘route’. We walk within a metre of a precipice on our right, with ice on our left, at the top of the glacier. Then turn down the face of the glacier creating a sweeping bend, almost slipping at times where it is most steep. Others follow. An exhilarating experience. 

Disappointment of not reaching the summit is mixed with the exhilarating views and descent. The time in the tent alone with some altitude sickness was unpleasant and my legs were certainly fatigued! 

Khare (4900m) is very cold; we sat in our sleeping bags for most of the afternoon in the unheated common room! And our windows will freeze on the inside tonight.